Complete with statues of Lenin, hammer and sickle emblems and even a security police called the KGB, Transnistria’s the kind of place you imagine Vladimir Putin would like all his neighbouring states to look like. Except its days may be numbered.
The “Prinestrovian Moldovan Republic” (PMR), to give its unofficial name, lies within Moldova, an EU candidate state that has had enough of it. An almighty battle (this time without guns) is underway as Moldova and the West seek to get rid of this throwback to the USSR.
On our Moldova Tour, we look at both sides of the conflict and ask the question: are Transnistria’s days numbered?
Moldova Tour: Background
In 1991, Moldova left the crumbling Soviet Union. As Soviet power collapsed, local nationalists took power, some of whom formed political parties that called for unification with Romania — a neighboring country with which ethnic Moldovans have ethnic ties — and the expulsion of Russian-speaking Slavs. Slavs, many who lived in eastern Transnistria, in turn formed their own political party calling for its unification with Russia. Moldova went to war with the separatists in 1990, and in response, Russia intervened on behalf of Transnistria. In 1992, a ceasefire took hold.
Since then, Transnistria has called itself independent, formed its own state, and maintained close ties with Russia, which stations 1,500 troops there. In 2006, Transnistrians voted to unify with Russia. Then in 2022, Russia invaded Ukraine. Many analysts theorized that one of Russia’s goals was to create a land bridge to Transnistria, paving the way for its annexation.
This year, Moldovans re-elected President Maia Sandu. Widely viewed as a pro-Western politician, Sandu’s election was hailed as a victory for anti-Russian forces. Sandu’s re-election also coincided with the passage of a referendum that added the desire for EU citizenship to Moldova’s constitution, thus solidifying to many the country’s pro-West tilt.
Yet Moldova also faces grave threats, including domestic unrest, economic instability, and the specter of a revanchist Russia. Can Moldova settle its differences with Transnistria, or is the country’s divisions driving it toward war?
Moldova Tour: Reading List
“Moldova: A History” by Rebecca Haynes
- Publisher: Bloomsbury Academic (2022)
- Language: English
- Pages: 256
“Between East and West: Across the Borderlands of Europe,” by Anne Applebaum
- Publisher: Anchor (2017)
- Language: English
- Pages: 336
Itinerary
At the start of our Moldova Tour, ww meet in the lobby of Hotel Plai, Chisinau. Dinner in the hotel and an introduction to the week ahead with our expert for the week Kamil Calus. We look at where recent events have led Moldova to, and review the country’s recent history from World War II to the break-up of the Soviet Union.
Overnight Hotel Plai, Chisinau
A short walking tour and brief drive through town visiting the Soviet Liberation Monument and Monument to the Romanian Patriots with Kamil Calus – for an overview of the competing versions of history. Visit Moldova’s Military History Museum for a meeting with two veterans of the 1992 conflict that culminated in Transnistria’s breakaway from Moldova. We learn about daily life meeting a family in their home- like the majority of people in Chisinau, they are Russian speaking. Meet with a leading expert in energy, a critical issue for Moldova (most of it comes from Russia).
Overnight Chisinau Hotel Plai
We travel south to Gagauzia, one of Moldova’s most unique regions. It is inhabited mostly not by ethnic Moldovans, but by Gagauz, who – although of Turkic origin – adhere to Orthodoxy. It is one of the most (if not the most!) pro-Russian parts of the country, which, like Transnistria, also disobeyed the authorities in Chisinau in 1990 and until 1994 functioned as the unrecognised Gagauz Republic. Although today Gagauzia has the status of an Autonomy within the Moldovan state, its relations with the central authorities are complicated. The region remains dominated by pro-Russian politicians. When in 2022 Russia launched a full-scale invasion against Ukraine, some local politicians and activists declared that they were awaiting Russian troops in Moldova with open arms. Since 2023, the Autonomy has been headed by Evghenia Guțul, a politician who represents pro-Russian oligarch Ilian Sor, who fled the country in 2019 and was convicted for his involvement in a scandal involving the theft of US$1 billion from Moldova’s banking sector in 2014. Gutul has announced grand economic plans for her region – including the creation of an international airport. How serious is Gagauzia’s pro-Russian stance – and what is the likelihood of better relations with the government in Chisinau? And what of the oligarch now in Israel?
Overnight Chisinau Hotel Plai
We head to Moldova’s breakaway Republic, Transnistria this morning. At the border we will pass two Russian checkpoints and stop at the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic checkpoint to cross the border. You will be given an entry visa ticket for the length of the stay (nothing is stamped in your passport). We meet our local guide – an enthusiastic proponent of tourism and PMR’s history – for the next two days and do a brief walking tour around the city centre.
Next we visit the city’s main agricultural and produce market to get a take on prices and the cost of living. Transnistria’s border is closed with Ukraine and its imports come through Moldova. Lunch in the market. After lunch we head to the pride of PMR – the grounds of Sherrif Tiraspol FC – a team in the Champions League. Their stadium is on the edge of town.
We then head out of town to Ciobruci, a nearby village for a meal hosted by a local farmer.
Overnight Hotel Russia, Tiraspol
We look at the local economy. Transnistria has profited from effectively free Russian gas for decades, enabling it to export products (including steel and concrete) and at highly competitive prices. The question remains if these industries can continue when the free gas ends. We take a look at two similar businesses in the city.
We visit a caviar farm & factory on the edge of the city – this visit includes a caviar tasting session. After a brief lunch we visit one of Transistria’s main export company’s – it produces cognac and other drinks. KVINT is an acronym and is composed of the first letters of the Russian phrase “Divins, Wines and Beverages of Tiraspol”.
Return to Chisinau
Overnight Hotel Plai, Chisinau
Briefing with a leading political and economic think tank in Moldova. We get an understanding of public opinion in relation to the EU (then NATO) and as well shifting political trends. We also look at how Moldova can best to handle the integration of Transnistria at the same time as EU integration. We visit Digital Park. Tech is Moldova’s fastest growing industry. The park is country’s prime centre for foreign investment and local start ups. We have a series of meetings with politicians and analysts.
Overnight Hotel Plai, Chisinau
Meet with a local journalist and TV presenter for an independent news agency based in Chisinau. We head out of the capital to one of Moldova’s best-known wineries. Moldova was the 21st largest exporter of wine in the world in 2021 ($140M) mainly to Romania, Belarus, Czechia and Poland. We will meet with the winemaker.
Overnight Hotel Hotel Plai, Chisinau
Moldova Tour ends at breakfast
Meet Your Expert
Kamil Calus is a Senior Fellow at the Centre for Eastern Studies (OSW) for the Republic of Moldova (since 2012) and also Romania (since 2018).
He is a graduate (MA) of International Relations (Eastern Studies) and Journalism and Social Communication (BA) at the Adam Mickiewicz University (UAM) in Poznań. Kamil holds a postgraduate degree in “Energy Trade on the European Market” at the Warsaw School of Economics (SGH) in Warsaw. He regularly writes on Romanian and Moldovan issues (including Tygodnik Powszechny weekly magazine) and is the author of “Moldova. The state of unnecessity” (Czarne Publishing House, 2020).
Essentials
May is an ideal time to visit Moldova with temperature during the day around 22°C. Temperatures drop to the low teens in the evenings.
The maximum size of our groups is 14 people, ensuring the small-group experience.
We provide genuine learning experiences through the eyes and ears of an expert, politician, or journalist.
Accommodation, meals (breakfast, lunch, and most dinners), and water are all included in tour package.
Our Moldova tour starts and ends in Chisinau. We will arrange minibuses for the duration of the tour.
The Moldovan leu (MDL) is Moldova’s currency. Most vendors will accept common credit cards.
What’s Included
The Moldova tour includes all of your accommodations, meals with water, and local transport whilst on tour. We will have one free evening without a covered dinner.
You are accompanied throughout the tour, including at meals, by your leader and the Political Tours team. All meetings with various speakers and guests are included. On any tour you meet numerous different speakers, giving you access to all sides of the story. We give you access to political experts, as well as getting to see ordinary life and meet real people in areas less often travelled by tourists.
The tour excludes any flights, visas, transfers from/to the airport, alcohol/other drinks, as well as any of your personal expenses.
Following the news
Like all our tours the itinerary is focused on current affairs. Events on the ground may change and the final schedule may be adjusted accordingly.
Group size
As on all our expert-led tours the groups are deliberately small and will not exceed 14 people. Frequently we travel with 10-12 people. Limited spaces are available.
Visa
UK passport holders do not need a visa. Other passport holders may require a visa. It is always good to check with the embassy in your country for latest advice regarding visa requirements.
Weather
May is an ideal time to visit Moldova- temperature in the day is around 22 celsius, and it is warm ans sunny. There can be rain showers. Temperatures drop to the low teens (celsius) in the evenings.
Dress
There are no specific dress requirements in Moldova. However, we suggest taking layers as the weather cools in the evenings.
Rain showers are not uncommon too so please ensure you pack a rain jacket.
Most important is to have comfortable shoes.
Men: Will need a jacket and tie for some of the meetings.
Women: You will need some smarter attire for one or two meetings.
FCO Website
The Foreign and Commonwealth Office publishes regularly updated travel information on its website www.fco.gov.uk/knowbeforeyougo which you are recommended to consult before booking and in good time before departure. Where it considers it appropriate to do so, the FCO may advise against all travel or all but essential travel to particular countries or parts of particular countries. Similarly, the FCO may withdraw any such previously given advice. Where the FCO issues such advice, we may as a result cancel your tour or make changes so as to avoid the area concerned (see clause 10). Alternatively, we may ask you to sign a form confirming you wish to proceed with the tour notwithstanding the FCO advice. It is in the nature of the itineraries we offer that the FCO may have issued such advice in relation to the country or parts of the country we are intending to visit prior to confirmation of your booking. In this case, you will be asked to sign the above form before we confirm your booking.
Medical Requirements
Advice on health requirements may be obtained from your GP, or alternatively from the Department of Health leaflet Advice on Health for Travelers, or the Department of Health in the UK. For further information on vaccination requirements, health outbreaks and general disease protection and prevention you should visit http://www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk/destinations.aspx.
Mosquito repellant is a good idea.
We suggest you visit your own doctor or local travel clinic who will have the most up-to-date travel advice, and be able to recommend any vaccinations prior to travel based on your medical history.
Currency
The Moldovan leu (MDL) is subdivided into 100 bani (sg. ban). The name of the currency originates from a Romanian word which means “lion”.
Electricity
2 types of plugs:
Internet access
Wifi is available in all hotels, as well as many coffee shops and restaurants.
Three Minutes in Moldova
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Moldova Expert:
Kamil Calus
Kamil Calus is a Senior Fellow at the Centre for Eastern Studies (OSW) for the Republic of Moldova (since 2012) and also Romania (since 2018). He regularly writes on Romanian and Moldovan issues (including Tygodnik Powszechny weekly magazine) and is the author of “Moldova. The state of unnecessity.”
