Last July marked a half-century since Turkey’s army landed on Cyprus, causing thousands to flee north and south. To this day, there are two Cypruses: the internationally recognized Republic of Cyprus, populated primarily by Greek Cypriots, and the breakaway Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, populated by Turkish Cypriots.
Repeated peace talks have been held over the years, but to little avail. Today, the island remains the EU’s last politically divided country with a sort of no-man’s-land between both sides. Meanwhile the north has been largely cut off from international trade while the south has developed with international investment.
Our Cyprus Tour takes all of this in. We travel to both sides of the island, speak to politicians and experts, and tour the ghost city of Varosha. Throughout all of it, we ask the question: can Cyprus be reunified, or is it destined to remain divided?
Cyprus Tour: Background
Cyprus gained independence from British colonial rule in 1960 under a constitution that split power in its government between the island’s two largest ethnic groups, the Greek and Turkish Cypriots. Yet a faction of Greek Cypriots supported the island’s unification with Greece, a demand known as “enosis,” while many Turkish Cypriots favored “taksim,” or ethnic partition. In 1974, Greek activists staged a coup against Cyprus’s president to try to achieve enosis.
In response, Turkey “invaded” or “intervened” the island to protect the Turkish Cypriot minority. Amid the violence, the island was ethnically partitioned, with Greek Cypriots fleeing south and Turkish Cypriots fleeing north. The island’s division was cemented by a UN-manned Buffer Zone that cut through the entirety of the island, including the capital city, Nicosia. Cyprus remains politically divided to this day, with a self-declared country, the “Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus,” (TRNC) controlling the northern third of the island. Only Turkey, a NATO country that stations thousands of troops on the island, recognizes the TRNC as sovereign.
The “Cyprus Problem” has become one of the world’s most intractable conflicts, leading to many attempts over the years to reunify the island. Arguably the closest attempt came in 2004, when Greek Cypriots voted overwhelmingly against the island’s reunification in a referendum – notably, the Turkish Cypriots voted overwhelmingly for reunification. Another close attempt came during the 2015-2017 Crans-Montana talks in Switzerland.
Today, Cyprus remains the EU’s last politically divided country and has Europe’s last divided capital city. Some analysts speculate that the prospects for reunification seem further away than ever. Can Cyprus achieve the elusive goal of reunification, or is the island destined to remain split between north and south?
Cyprus Tour: Reading List
“The Cyprus Problem,” by James Ker-Lindsay
- Publisher: Oxford University Press (2011)
- Language: English
- Pages: 113
“Echoes from the Dead Zone: Across the Cyprus Divide,” by Yiannis Papadakis
- Publisher: I.B. Tauris (2005)
- Language: English
- Pages: 257
“Bitter Lemons,” by Lawrence Durrell
- Publisher: Axios Press (2009)
- Language: English
- Pages: 364
“Hostage to History: Cyprus from the Ottomans to Kissinger,” by Christopher Hitchens
- Publisher: Verso (1997)
- Language: English
- Pages: 178
Itinerary
The Cyprus Tour starts in the evening at dinner. Our experts give us an introduction to the week ahead and a brief history of modern Cyprus prior to 1974 – from Ottoman times to the British colony and the Cyprus Emergency.
We recommend people fly to Larnaca and take a taxi to Nicosia (approx. 30 minutes).
Overnight Nicosia
On Sunday morning we hear from eyewitnesses of the 1974 war and meet with a Greek family that fled from the north. We then tour the Green Line which divides Nicosia – the EU’s last divided capital city.
In the afternoon we get an overview of the various talks and plans that have so far ended in failure including the UN-mediated discussion in 2021 and Crans-Montana in 2017. Before that in 2004 the Annan Plan saw an island-wide referendum in which Turkish Cypriots voted for unification and Greek Cypriots voted against.
Overnight Nicosia
We begin our broader tour of the island with a focus on the north. Control of Cyprus lies in four parts: The Republic of Cyprus makes up 60% of the island, Turkish Republic Northern Cyprus (TRNC, recognised only by Turkey) in the north, the UN controlled buffer zone, and the British have two sovereign military bases on the island – Akrotiri and Dhekelia. Today we will travel through all four areas. We start by heading south east to Dhekelia – just next to Larnaca – and learn about the British presence and history here and their purpose on the island. Currently the base is home to an infantry battalion and a signals intelligence operation that monitors the Middle East. The Republic of Cyprus has argued the bases are a vestige of colonialism and should go. Lunch is at Lambros’s Fish and Chip Shop next to the base.
We leave the Overseas Territory for the UN buffer zone and then cross into Northern Cyprus. (Passports required at the checkpoints)
We check into our hotel in Famagusta. We then tour the ghost town of Varosha, once one of Cyprus’s most popular holiday resorts, which has been partially fenced off by Turkish troops and deserted ever since. The ghost city includes 45 former hotels, 3,000 commercial properties, 60 apartment hotels, 21 banks, 25 museums, 20 theatres and museums, and 99 entertainment venues. Greek Cypriot families have been pushing to get their property restored here for five decades. In recent years, though, the TRNC has moved to open up parts of the city to tourists.
Overnight Famagusta
Famagusta was once Cyprus’s most important port (dating back to classical times). The TRNC has turned the dock into a Free Port – both international and Turkish shipping docks here. We take a brief look at the port. Under the Annan Plan there had been a proposal for Varosha to be returned to its owners in return for allowing the TRNC to operate Famagusta as an internationally recognised Free Port.
Further north, coastal development is developing apace. Adverts pitched at Russian and Iranians can be seen alongside new condo complexes. We visit one site with a Turkish Cypriot property developer – all part of the island’s drive to boost its economy.
We then drive west to Kyrenia – on the north coast. After a walk around the port and castle we check into our hotel in nearby Bellapais – home of the famous Abbey and made famous by Lawrence Durrell’s book, Bitter Lemons. His house is in the village.
Overnight Bellapais
We have the morning to explore Bellapais Abbey (and even swim). We then meet a local Turkish family – their history tells a story of the island since 1974. What would unification bring to them and do they want it?
After lunch we head to the nearby Gecitkoy Dam where water brought in via an undersea pipeline from Turkey is stored. This has both political and environmental implications… while the island is increasingly short of water it increases its dependence on Turkey.
Visit with a local NGO. Environmentalist groups (opposed to the dam) see this as the latest threat to the island’s biodiversity (plus wildfires and flooding) and form a powerful group that unites people on both sides of the Green Line.
Overnight Bellapais
For the last two days we return to Nicosia (north and south). We get the latest analysis on the talks. Meet with local journalists – Greek and Turkish – and leading politicians in the opposition and government in the Republic of Cyprus as well as in the north. We also look at the island’s economy beyond tourism. Banking has frequently gotten Cyprus into hot water.
Crucially we look at the international implications of any settlement. Who are the key players and what are their positions? Much is changing. Turkey’s involvement is obviously considerable – and the UN, US and EU have key roles too. But standing in the wings are Russia and even Iran. The problem is far from being two-dimensional.
Farewell dinner and review of the Tour.
Overnight Nicosia
Cyprus Tour ends after breakfast.
James Ker-Lindsay is Visiting Professor at LSE who focuses on conflict, peace and security in South East Europe, EU enlargement, and recognition in international politics.
He has an extensive list of publications, including The Cyprus Problem: What Everyone Needs to Know (Oxford University Press, 2011); Kosovo: The Path to Contested Statehood in the Balkans (I.B.Tauris, 2009), and EU Accession and UN Peacemaking in Cyprus (Palgrave Macmillan 2005).
He has been interviewed by many leading news organisations, such as the BBC, CNN, Reuters, Associated Press, The Economist, The Guardian, The New York Times, Radio Free Europe, The Times and the Wall Street Journal.
Essentials
The average daily temperature in Cyprus in September ranges from 18-31°C during the day.
The maximum size of our tours is 14 people, ensuring the small-group experience.
We provide genuine learning experiences through the eyes and ears of an expert, politician, or journalist.
Accommodation, meals (breakfast, lunch, and most dinners), and water are all included in tour package.
Our tour starts and ends in Nicosia, Cyprus’s capital. We arrange minibuses for the duration of the tour.
The Euro is the currency in southern Cyprus; the Turkish Lira is the currency of northern Cyprus.
Legal Entry
The legal points of entry to the Republic of Cyprus are the international airports of Larnaca and Paphos and the ports of Larnaca, Limassol, Latsi and Paphos, which are situated in the area under the effective control of the Government of the Republic of Cyprus.
Entry to the territory of the Republic of Cyprus via any other port or airport in the area of Cyprus in which the Government of the Republic does not exercise effective control (Turkish occupied area) is illegal.
The Cyprus tour starts and ends in Nicosia.
2 nights Nicosia, 1 night Famagusta, 2 nights Bellapais (near Kyrenia), 2 nights Nicosia.
Getting to Nicosia
The closest major international airport to Nicosia, is Larnaca International Airport (IATA code: LCA). Larnaca Airport is located in the southern part of Cyprus. The drive from Larnaca Airport to Nicosia is about 50 kilometers (about 31 miles), and you can easily reach Nicosia from Larnaca Airport by taxi.
NOTE: The Republic of Cyprus does not consider entry at Ercan Airport in the north to be a “legal” entrance into Cyprus.
Place names
Most places in North Cyprus have both Greek and Turkish names, and some have English. Nicosia/Lefkosa, Kyrenia/Girne and Famagusta/Gazimagusa are used interchangeably by locals and visitors alike, but most other places are usually known by their Turkish names.
What’s Included
All of your accommodation is included, as well as local transport (except during your free time).
Flights are not included in the price and need to be arranged by customers themselves or with an agent.
Following the news
Like all our tours the itinerary is focused on current affairs. Events on the ground may change and the final schedule may be adjusted accordingly.
COVID-19: We won’t go to a country unless it is safe to do so- we remain guided by the UK Foreign Office travel advice. For this reason some dates may change depending on the situation on the ground.
Group size
For your bespoke tour- groups range from individuals to families, as well as small groups of friends. The tour is tailor made for you and your group.
On any of our expert-led tours the groups are deliberately small and will not exceed 14 people. Frequently we travel with 10-12 people. Limited spaces are available.
FCO Website – Travel Advice
The Foreign and Commonwealth Office publishes regularly updated travel information on its website www.fco.gov.uk/knowbeforeyougo which you are recommended to consult before booking and in good time before departure. Where it considers it appropriate to do so, the FCO may advise against all travel or all but essential travel to particular countries or parts of particular countries. Similarly, the FCO may withdraw any such previously given advice. Where the FCO issues such advice, we may as a result cancel your tour or make changes so as to avoid the area concerned (see clause 10). Alternatively, we may ask you to sign a form confirming you wish to proceed with the tour notwithstanding the FCO advice. It is in the nature of the itineraries we offer that the FCO may have issued such advice in relation to the country or parts of the country we are intending to visit prior to confirmation of your booking. In this case, you will be asked to sign the above form before we confirm your booking.
Medical Requirements
Advice on health requirements may be obtained from your GP, or alternatively from the Department of Health leaflet Advice on Health for Travelers, or the Department of Health in the UK. For further information on vaccination requirements, health outbreaks and general disease protection and prevention you should visit http://www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk/destinations.aspx
Currency
The Euro is the currency in southern Cyprus. Turkish Lira is the currency of Northern Cyprus- however most shops will accept Euros and give change in Liras. ATM’s are readily accessible, and cards can be used for payments in a wide variety of places.
Weather
The average daily temperatures in Cyprus in September range from 31°C (87°F) to 18°C (64°F). Expect higher temperatures in interior cities like Nicosia and slightly cooler weather by the coast.
What to wear
Dress is casual and comfortable. Shoes suitable for walking over cobbles are recommended. Layers are recommended as it is cooler in the evenings.
Some of the hotels have swimming pools. You may want to pack a swimming costume.
Men: Will need a jacket and tie for some of the meetings.
Women: You will need smarter dress for one or two meetings.
Electricity
British/UK G type 3 square pin plug, standard 230v, 50Hz.
Webinar with James Ker-Lindsay
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Cyprus Expert:
James Ker-Lindsay
James Ker-Lindsay is Visiting Professor at LSE who focuses on conflict, peace and security in South East Europe, EU enlargement, and recognition in international politics. He has been interviewed by many leading news organisations, such as the BBC, CNN, Reuters, Associated Press, The Economist, The Guardian, The New York Times, The Times and the Wall Street Journal.
